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Mobile Home Plumbing Kings provides mobile home plumbing repair, manufactured home repiping, and mobile home water heater replacement services in the Georgetown, KY area for single-wides, double-wides, and park homes. Contact us now for a free estimate.
Mobile home plumbing repair in Georgetown, KY costs anywhere from $130 to $440 on average for a single repair like a leaking water line, a bad shutoff valve, or a clogged drain. The price depends on what failed, the pipe material, how far under the home we have to crawl, whether the belly has to be opened and patched, and the parts needed.
Yes, we take mobile home plumbing requests across Georgetown and the rest of the Lexington-Fayette, KY area. Labor and material costs here run about 11% below the national average, and the price range above already reflects that.
Yes, we work on single-wides, double-wides, park models and older manufactured homes, including ones still on their original gray poly pipe. Tell us the year of the home if you know it.
Yes, many will, but some turn mobile homes down because of the tight crawl underneath and the different parts. We take those jobs.
The water lines run under the floor in the belly instead of in the walls, drains are often 3 inch instead of 4, and many sinks use auto vents. We use the mobile home sizes of parts like tub faucets.
Yes, we cover the Georgetown, KY area. Send us the property address and we'll confirm.
Yes, in most areas we can get someone out after hours for a burst pipe or a leak you can't stop. Shut off the main valve first, then call us.
Usually the same day or the next day, sooner if water is running.
We need the address, the year of the home, single or double-wide, and what's going on. Photos of the leak or the pipe under the home help a lot if you can reach it safely.
No, not for work under the home, as long as we can reach the skirting access panel. For a faucet, toilet or water heater closet inside, someone needs to let us in.
Yes, but check with your landlord or park manager first. Your lease or park rules decide who is responsible for which lines and who pays.
Yes, for some jobs. Repipes and water heater replacements often need one, and small repairs often don't. Your state or local building department decides, and we check before we start.
Yes, we look at the problem and give you the price before we start. If we open the belly and find more damage, we stop and talk to you before doing anything extra.
Yes, sometimes, but it depends on your policy, and some mobile home policies only cover a short list of named causes. We can give you an invoice and photos of the failed pipe for your claim.
Most leak, valve and drain repairs are done in one visit. A water heater swap usually takes a few hours.
A PEX repipe usually runs $1,500 to $4,000 on a single-wide and $3,500 to $7,500 on a double-wide. Copper usually costs about 1.5 to 2 times as much. We price it by the number of fixtures and how easy the crawl is.
Most take one day, though a large double-wide can take 2 or 3.
Yes, we replace it with PEX. Polybutylene breaks down from the inside, so it can leak or burst without warning, and it is no longer accepted by U.S. plumbing codes.
Look at the water lines under the home or near the water heater. Polybutylene is gray plastic, often stamped PB2110, and homes built from the late 1970s to the mid-1990s are the most likely to have it. Send us a photo and we'll tell you.
Yes, we go under the home, find where the water is coming from, and repair the line. Tell us where you see water, a soft floor, or a sagging spot in the belly.
Yes, we thaw them with controlled heat, never an open flame. The riser where the line comes out of the ground and lines near a torn belly are common spots, and we check for splits once water flows.
Yes, we replace gas and electric units with heaters approved for manufactured homes. Many closets only fit up to about a 30 gallon tank with the cold inlet on the side, so we match the old one.
Yes, it needs to be approved for manufactured homes, and that's the only kind we install. A gas heater inside the home also has to be a sealed combustion model that keeps its exhaust separate from the living space.
The usual causes are a failed auto vent under a sink, a dried-out trap, a leaking toilet seal, or a drain pipe that's pulled apart under the home. We check each one and fix the source.
Yes, we clear sinks, tubs, toilets and the main drain line under the home. Many older homes have no indoor cleanouts, so we often work from the cleanout where the home's drain meets the sewer or septic line.
Many homes have one near the water heater, low on the wall or behind an outside access panel, and another at the riser under or beside the home. If yours won't close, we replace it.
Common causes are clogged faucet aerators, a partly blocked pressure regulator, old galvanized pipe, or a hidden leak under the home. If your water meter spins with everything off, tell us.
Yes, in most cases. The water lines in a mobile home run under the floor, so we do nearly all the work from underneath and only open small spots behind fixtures.
Yes, we cut out the bad section and splice in PEX with fittings made for poly pipe. If it's your second or third leak, we'll usually tell you a repipe makes more sense.
Yes, we cut out the split section and splice in new PEX.
Yes, we thaw it with controlled heat starting at the lowest point, then find out why it froze. A drain line that drains properly shouldn't freeze, so something is wrong.
Yes, we replace worn heat tape on the riser and exposed lines. On plastic pipe we only use thermostat-controlled tape, plugged straight into a GFCI outlet and never an extension cord.
On an electric heater it's often a burned-out element, which happens when the tank runs dry. Tell us if it's gas or electric and whether the tank is leaking.
Yes, in most cases. An electric heater usually needs a double-pole 30 amp breaker and at least 10 gauge wire, so an electrician checks your panel first. We cap the gas line and close off the old flue.
The tub is the lowest drain in the home, so a clog in the main line shows up there first. Some older homes also have a 1.5 inch washer drain that's too small for newer washers, and we can upsize it to 2 inch.
It's usually a venting problem, like a worn-out auto vent or a blocked roof vent. Loose drain lines under the home can also thump when water runs through them.
Yes, a rocking toilet usually means the floor under it has gotten wet and soft. We reset the toilet on a new seal and either replace the soft floor or cover it with a toilet floor plate.
Yes, mobile home tub faucets are usually 8 inch or 4 inch, and we replace them from behind the wall. If there's no access panel, we cut one from the next room and add a cover.
Yes, and a same-size swap is the simplest job. A different size or a walk-in shower may mean moving the drain under the floor.
Yes, we connect the water and sewer lines, join the crossovers on a multi-section home, and pressure test everything before you move in.
Shut off the main water valve and turn off the breaker for an electric water heater so it doesn't burn out. Then move things away from the wet area and call us.
We use PEX for most repairs and repipes because it resists corrosion and is less likely to burst when it freezes. Copper is an option, but it costs more and can split in a freeze.
Yes, we pull out wet insulation, put in new insulation, and seal the opening with belly patch tape. Leaving it open lets cold air and animals reach the pipes.
When you have polybutylene or galvanized pipe and the leaks keep coming. We usually just repair a leak in newer PEX, but old pipe that has started leaking tends to keep leaking.
Yes, small jobs like a faucet or a push-fit splice are doable. Gas water heaters, venting problems and leaks deep under the belly are better left to us.
Keep the skirting closed, patch belly tears, and check that the heat tape on the riser is working. In a hard freeze, keep the heat above 55 degrees.